It has been my experience that many of those zooms were indeed as bad as everyone claimed however, there are a few gems in there that few people talk about today simply because we tend to fall in step to the wisdom of our predecessors in their all-encompassing disregard for these early zooms. I want to go back though to that late 1970’s to early 1980’s period when zooms were still the devil. Years later, the efforts in optical science, lens manufacturing, and marketing for zoom lenses had finally broken down that stigma to the point now where many photographers are questioning the need for even including a prime alongside their trusty 24-70mm and 70-200mm zooms. Zooms were still considered by many to be the woeful compromise that the uncommitted photographer resorted to using when either their bag weight or wallet thickness couldn’t handle the task of supporting “proper” gear. That may have been a deal-breaker for some film shooters back in the day but it hardly makes a difference in most situations when that f/4 is attached to a camera with a modern, digital sensor.īack when this 28-48mm was designed, most zoom lenses hadn’t quite advanced as much as their elder primes. One way Olympus was able to achieve this was by limiting the max aperture of the lens to f/4.
I don’t make this size comparison to knock the excellent Nikon lens I just want you to be able clearly visualize how small this Olympus wide-angle lens is in relation to something you’re likely more familiar. Weighing less than 11 ounces with a barrel length of only 2.1 inches and a maximum diameter of 2.5 inches, this entire lens can fit inside just the hood of a Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8. PS: Always always take many photos of each step you're doing.Compare it to the modern 24-70mm f/2.8 lenses and you may find its compromise of less focal range and max aperture are counter-balanced by its significant savings in size and heft.
Hope that some of this is helpful to you,
This will minimise the chance for the name ring to tilt off-axis and get stuck. Degrease name ring, put cap on the ring with some pressure, unscrew. Then, put double side sticky tape on the edge of the cap. Name ring: Look for a back lens cap or anything with the fitting diameter. Best done at far distance (lens retracted), cause you will put the torque on the two guiding levers inside. Then try to unscrew the whole front barrel with the name ring in one piece. Loose this screw (check on nearest distance if there are more of these). Tiny screw on front lens barrel: Usually this is a stopping screw for a thread underneath. You could also just break off that lever from the lens :-) If you're lazy you could try to slightly bend the aperture lever, so that it does pass the taking mechanism on the cam. I will just write down what could be useful, hoping that it does apply to your lens (which I do not know).
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