Draw the line on top of the tape, and cut over the tape using a circular saw or miter saw. This will ensure a stronger, more secure hold*Ĭut 3/4″ plywood to specified lengths and widths (I had HD do the cuts for me, which made it easier, but if you do this at home here is a tip to prevent splintering: Use blue painters tape to tape the line that you will be cutting. * Always glue surfaces you are joining together before you use a screw. *Always use a square to ensure a proper and secure build* Things I Don’t Mention Below in the Steps But You MUST Remember:
PureBond Hardwood Plywood is exclusively sold at Home Depot) Cut List:Ĥ - 1 x3 12 1/4″ (top and bottom of door frame)Ģ - 1/2″ plywood 12 1/4″ x 13 7/8″ (door panel)ġ - 1/4″ plywood 36″ x 20″ (optional back panel) That is why I chose to use it when constructing the base cabinet unit as well! (P.S.
**– I LOVE PureBond Hardwood Plywood because they are made formaldehyde-free in North America, and in comparison to plywood sold at Lowe’s I’ve found they splinter less, especially on the thinner sheets. Tack nails to attach back panel (optional) Wood filler (I only use THIS one because of the super smooth finish)
#FARMHOUSE BOOKSHELF 2 DOORS AT BOTTOM PLUS#
White semi-gloss latex acrylic paint/primer (I used Behr Premium Plus in bright white) *Examine plywood and lumber for imperfections, ensuring they are straight, before purchasing* Supplies Needed (for 1 base unit):ġ sheet of 4′ x 8′ - 3/4″ PureBond Hardwood Plywood** (the smaller size sold is not enough for 1 cabinet base, but this large sheet is enough to make 2)ġ sheet of 2′ x 4′– 1/2″ PureBond Hardwood Plywoodġ - 8 foot length 1 x 2 poplar board (paint grade)Ĥ face-mount overlay hinges (they are sold in a pair, so 2 packages) Tools Needed:Ĭircular saw or Miter saw <– this is the one I got from the contest I won and it is my most FAVORITE tool EVERRRRR!ġ/4 drill bit (to pre-drill hardware holes)ġ/16 drill bit (to pre-drill hinge holes) This will give you a 1/2″ lip on both sides and the front, making it sturdier. If your bookcase is a different size than mine were, make sure you add at least 1 inch to the width and depth. The measurements of the finished cabinet base are: 13″ depth x 36″ width x 20″ height (although if you have a bookcase that is shorter, but the base measurements match, then you don’t have to change anything).
#FARMHOUSE BOOKSHELF 2 DOORS AT BOTTOM HOW TO#
The actual body is an adaptation from her mom-plex kitchen cabinet base plans, if I remember correctly, and the doors are from her tutorial on Shaker-style cabinet doors.īruno (my husband) and I built these months ago using and I just barely figured out how to use Google Sketch up to give you some diagrams.įirst of all, the measurements for this plan was designed for bookcases that have the following dimensions: I used a combination of plans from Ana White. Only problem? They are only 6 feet tall and I have 8 foot ceilings! My solution? I will be giving more information on them in a future post, but suffice to say I was thrilled to have a couple of bookcases for my living room! I had been wanting to build some custom built-ins in my living room for awhile, and these were a great start. The bookcase units were a breeze to assemble, required no tools (except a screw-driver for only 3 screws) and are the sturdiest bookcases I’ve seen for the quality and price point. A few months ago I received a couple of PureBond Hardwood Plywood bookcase/bookshelf kits (no longer available but similar is HERE) to review and put together.
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